Camino Real from Barichara to Guane: a complete walking guide

The Camino Real from Barichara to Guane is the best-known walk in Santander, and deservedly so: a little over five kilometres of cobbled trail dropping through dry mountains, cactus, goats and wide-open viewpoints into a tiny white village where time stopped a couple of centuries ago.

Almost anyone in normal shape can do it, as long as they start early and carry water. This guide collects what most of our guests ask before setting out.

What the Camino Real is

Before roads existed, the caminos reales were the network that connected the towns of the Colombian Andes. This particular stretch follows an indigenous Guane route, paved and restored in the 19th century by the German engineer Geo von Lengerke, whose mark is on many of Santander's old trails.

Today it is a heritage path: the same stone slabs walked by muleteers, mules and traders for generations. Walking it is not just exercise with a view — it is a walk along the region's original infrastructure.

Practical facts

• Distance: roughly 5.4 km one way.
• Time: 1.5 to 2.5 hours depending on pace and photo stops.
• Difficulty: easy to moderate. The trail runs mostly downhill from Barichara (about 1,300 m) to Guane (about 1,100 m), but the stones are uneven and can be slippery.
• Trailhead: the western edge of Barichara, near the viewpoint at the end of Calle 5. It is signposted, and anyone in town will point you to "el camino a Guane".
• Shade: very little. This is the detail people underestimate most.

What time to leave

Starting early is not decorative advice — it is the difference between a beautiful walk and a punishing one. Aim to set off between 6:00 and 7:00 a.m. The light is golden, the air is cool and low mist still sits in the valley.

From 10:00 a.m. the sun hits the stone directly and there is nowhere to hide. The second-best option is leaving around 3:30 p.m., but then you need to plan the return carefully: at this latitude it gets dark around 6:00 p.m. year-round, and the trail has no lighting.

Staying with us, you leave the house, reach the trailhead in about a 10-minute drive, and start walking before the town wakes up.

What to bring

• Water: at least 1.5 litres per person. There is nowhere to refill along the way.
• Sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses. The Santander sun is strong even on cloudy days.
• Shoes with grip. Hiking boots are not necessary, but flip-flops and smooth soles are a bad idea on polished stone.
• Cash. In Guane the restaurants, the museum and the ride back all work better with cash.
• Insect repellent, especially in the rainy season.

What you see along the way

The path descends between stone walls, huge fig trees and tropical dry forest. You will cross farm gates, pass grazing goats and donkeys, and get wide views over the Suárez river valley in the open sections.

At two or three points the trail branches off towards private farms; always follow the main cobbled path and the markers. It is a well-used trail on weekends, so you will rarely be alone.

Guane, the destination

Guane is a tiny, quiet village with a shaded plaza, an 18th-century stone church and a stillness that contrasts even with Barichara.

Two stops worth making:

1. The Palaeontological and Archaeological Museum. A surprising collection of marine fossils — this area was sea floor millions of years ago — along with Guane ceramics and archaeological remains. Small, cheap, and much better than you expect.
2. The plaza. Sit down with a sabajón, the local artisanal milk-and-egg liqueur, or a cold juice. It is the reward for the walk.

Getting back to Barichara

You do not have to walk back — in fact almost nobody does, because the return is uphill the whole way with the sun overhead.

Buses and shared colectivos leave Guane's plaza for Barichara through the day, roughly hourly, taking 20 to 30 minutes. It is a local service, so ask about the exact time of the last bus as soon as you arrive in the village, especially on weekdays.

The other option is arranging a pickup. If you are staying with us, we can help organise the ride back to the house.

How it fits into a three-day trip

This walk works best as the second morning's plan: arrive on the first afternoon and catch the sunset, give the second morning to the Camino Real and come back for lunch, and leave the third day for artisan workshops in Barichara or a trip to the Chicamocha Canyon.

After walking down to Guane under the sun, coming back to a country house with shade, a hammock and silence is exactly what the body asks for.